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Post  Joe Leslie on Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:24 am

just wondering what do you guys use?? i have been using STRYPIT as Nitromors is now gone water based and you have to leave it on an item for up to 48 hours before it'll strip away paint properly. found this out the hard way as we rely on it a lot at time in my line of work.
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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:41 pm

About to try brake fluid on a small section of a resin model
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Post  brian on Sat Oct 20, 2012 6:00 pm

Ive tried one of my off cast wheels i made in resin in brake fluid and it dissolved. Although it did take a few days. I wanted to see what kind of damage it did.

For metal parts, im currently using caustic soda and boiling water. Kind of bakes the paint and it becomes very brittle and just falls off. You have to be careful of course but you need to be careful with any paint stripping

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Post  Cazzo on Sat Oct 20, 2012 6:28 pm

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I use my trusted cellulose thinners for this,

After I've stripped the model of its decals and removed all the plastic parts I roll it up in kitchen roll,
Use about 8 sheets and roll the model up like a sausage roll,
Then soak the kitchen roll with the thinners and leave it for about 10mins,
Check it after 5mins and if it has dried out re-soak it and let it sit for another 5mins,
When I remove the model from the kitchen roll the paint is falling off,
If you give it a rub with a soft wire brush it will get the last bits off or you can use a tooth pick,


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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:48 am

Cazzo wrote:.

I use my trusted cellulose thinners for this,

After I've stripped the model of its decals and removed all the plastic parts I roll it up in kitchen roll,
Use about 8 sheets and roll the model up like a sausage roll,
Then soak the kitchen roll with the thinners and leave it for about 10mins,
Check it after 5mins and if it has dried out re-soak it and let it sit for another 5mins,
When I remove the model from the kitchen roll the paint is falling off,
If you give it a rub with a soft wire brush it will get the last bits off or you can use a tooth pick,


Will this strip paint off plastic and resin too!

Am looking at buying some Simple Green as this is the stuff being recommended on other model forums:
file:///C:/Users/R/Desktop/Mdonnelly%20&%20Co.%20Ltd.%20Power%20tools%20-%20Simple%20Green%20-%20online%20store.htm

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Post  Cazzo on Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:13 am

RORY O CONNOR wrote:
Cazzo wrote:.

I use my trusted cellulose thinners for this,

After I've stripped the model of its decals and removed all the plastic parts I roll it up in kitchen roll,
Use about 8 sheets and roll the model up like a sausage roll,
Then soak the kitchen roll with the thinners and leave it for about 10mins,
Check it after 5mins and if it has dried out re-soak it and let it sit for another 5mins,
When I remove the model from the kitchen roll the paint is falling off,
If you give it a rub with a soft wire brush it will get the last bits off or you can use a tooth pick,


Will this strip paint off plastic and resin too!

Am looking at buying some Simple Green as this is the stuff being recommended on other model forums:

file:///C:/Users/R/Desktop/Mdonnelly%20&%20Co.%20Ltd.%20Power%20tools%20-%20Simple%20Green%20-%20online%20store.htm

.




Sorry Rory but the thinners will mark the resin and may even make it go soft!!

I would only use thinners on a diecast model,

If it's for the Otto M3 then I would rub the model with Scotch Brite (grey) using the original Otto white as your primer/undercoat,
Don't go mad rubbing at it, just rub until the paint is dull and try not to break through the paint exposing any of the resin,

This way you will be able to paint straight on to the model and wont have to worry about damaging the resin by stripping it completely,
It will also make things easier, quicker and you wont have to worry about getting a reaction between the resin and primer or the primer and paint,



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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:16 am

yes its for the Otto. Have used a sanding block to flatten the paint. Did a trial spray on the bonnet and got 3 fish eyes. Don't want to strip the paint and want to use the top coat as the primer. Where would I get scotch brite
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Post  Cazzo on Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:30 am

.

You should be able to get scotch brite in your local motor-factors or on ebay,
Make sure it's Grey in colour as that is the Fine stuff, there is also Red coloured stuff but it's too abrasive for models,
Some of the Brands I would recommend would be Mirka or 3M, there's other brands out there but they clog up to quick,

Also if you are getting Fisheye's then that's a silicone reaction, don't paint a model were you have been sparying WD40 or using any cleaning products or wax,

You can get stuff called Panel Wipe (motorfactors/ebay) to clean the model before painting, this helps to kill the silicone on the model,
After you have the model rubbed down cleaned and ready to paint put some Panel Wipe on a paper towel and re-clean the model,
It should dry quick enough but have a dry paper towel to hand so you can go over it to dry the last few bits,

Hope this helps Rory,



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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sun Oct 21, 2012 12:16 pm

Cazzo wrote:.

You should be able to get scotch brite in your local motor-factors or on ebay,
Make sure it's Grey in colour as that is the Fine stuff, there is also Red coloured stuff but it's too abrasive for models,
Some of the Brands I would recommend would be Mirka or 3M, there's other brands out there but they clog up to quick,

Also if you are getting Fisheye's then that's a silicone reaction, don't paint a model were you have been sparying WD40 or using any cleaning products or wax,

You can get stuff called Panel Wipe (motorfactors/ebay) to clean the model before painting, this helps to kill the silicone on the model,
After you have the model rubbed down cleaned and ready to paint put some Panel Wipe on a paper towel and re-clean the model,
It should dry quick enough but have a dry paper towel to hand so you can go over it to dry the last few bits,

Hope this helps Rory,

Think the fisheye might be from some brake fluid-I had the nose of the model in brake fluid to see if it would strip the paint. Will get some panel wipe and scotch bright tomorrow-Thanks



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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:32 pm

Struggling to remove paint off 3 Sunstar Escorts.

NitroMors-No good.

Left soaking in Cellulose thinners-no good.

Is there anything I can soak the models in that will remove it all. The old Nitromore was great-5 mins and it was all off.

Wondering about brake fluid?

I just want a bare metal shell!
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Post  Cazzo on Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:27 pm

.

I think the brake fluid soaks into the metal or is very hard to wash off,
When you paint the model you'll get silicone pops (fisheyes) in the paint,



You could try this, I posted it in another thread,

The new stuff is dichloromethane free to keep the VOC levels down,
If you were to buy some dichloromethane and add it to the new stuff you would end up with the equivalent of the old stronger stuff,
I'm not sure what ratio the mix would be so it would be a bit of trial and error until you got a good strong stripper again,

Here's a link to some of that dichloromethane,

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/140574254717?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0

As long as you are not going to sell the stuff you have mixed then you haven't broke any laws Wink


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Post  didcos on Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:07 pm

Acetone works fine for all kind of paints.

Don't use it with resin as it will melt it.

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Post  brian on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:03 pm

Last 1/18 i stripped was a Solido Subaru. Left it sit in dettol for a few days and the paint just lifted off without damaging even the plastic parts.

Been using caustic soda on a few 1/43 metros and it works pretty well. In saying that, i dont think plastic would be safe

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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:27 pm

brian wrote:Last 1/18 i stripped was a Solido Subaru. Left it sit in dettol for a few days and the paint just lifted off without damaging even the plastic parts.

Been using caustic soda on a few 1/43 metros and it works pretty well. In saying that, i dont think plastic would be safe

I find the Dettol is good for Tameo but for stripping whole models did not know it worked. Have got my Escorts back in the shit Nitomors again-just leaving it to soak.-been trying to strip these models for a week now.

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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:17 pm

Anyone know the melting temp of Sunstar Escorts?

Thinking about putting them in the gas over at 175 degrees-this will blister the paint without hopefully melting the model? Any thoughts folks?


Last edited by RORY O CONNOR on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  brian on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:33 pm

Yes rory the dettol will soften the paint and it should peel off.

Ive also heard fairy power spray will work, but havnt been able to find this stuff myself so havnt been able to try it.

Patience is key rory, this method can take a good few attempts to get all the paint off. It may take as long as the new nitromors, but once you keep all water out of the dettol it will not go off and you can re-use it many times.

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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:52 pm

The fairy stuff only works on self applied paint and not factory stuff like on Die casts. Have also tried Simple Green-it only works on self applied paint-has no effect on factory paint
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Post  RORY O CONNOR on Tue May 21, 2013 4:46 pm

Mixed yellow cap Nitromors with cellulose thinner and it did a fantastic job on two Sunstar Escorts.

Brown Dettol also working well but it dis-colours clear plastic-its useful for indoor work as there are no fumes.

Clear Dettol softens the glue on Sunstar Escort doors so you can get the door panels and windows off cleanly but you need to leave it for a few days.
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Post  daivideo on Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:26 pm

What mix are you using Rory of the Nitro mors and thinners?
How long does Dettol take to strip a model?
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