Accuracy of models

Just wondering what are peoples thoughts on how acurate they prefer their models to be,that is decals ,paint coulours,wheels,lhd,rhd etc etc.
Especially when they are commanding premium prices.

If you are paying a premium it needs to be right, if you are buying a partwork car then I can forgive small errors. What I dont like is fake branding to replace the tobacco logos. Please leave blank if you arent putting the logo there

Personally, I am of the opinion that accuracy is vital - well, they are on the models I build for my own collection, and I'd also like to think that people are also seeing that in any CODE343 branded model that they shell out their hard-earned cash for as well. It comes down to the old adage, "If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing well".

LHD / RHD variations from the original subject seem to be one of the most common, and I guess that simply comes down to what particular base models are available at the time the model is built. However, with a certain degree of work, it's possible on some models to swap over a complete interior to be the correct configuration, and then switch the windscreen wipers over accordingly.

I have recently acquired one such model that I am currently undecided whether to correct it, or to leave it as it was built by the original builder. As the model was one of my 'Holy Grails' it's an even harder decision to make. The David Llewellin MG Metro 6R4 from the 1986 Fram Filters Int'l Welsh Rally was originally 1 of 50 produced - well, that's what the base label states! - but it was one of the more recent LHD models built, as opposed to the original RHD batch that must have been made in the early 2000s.

So as you can see, I have a dilemma - convert it to be accurate (and to match the original batch), OR leave it inaccurate (but as originally supplied by the Code 3 manufacturer themselves)?

Decisions, decisions....

I wonder what has driven you to post such a question though, ie do you too have a particular example of an inaccurate model being supplied?

Zeus wrote:If you are paying a premium it needs to be right, if you are buying a partwork car then I can forgive small errors.

Agree, and to be fair, most collectors can see the differences between premium and partwork anyway.

Sadly, eBay sellers often see the higher prices that premium models sell for, and (not knowing or 'Spotting The Differences'), assume that they can ask exactly the same for the inferior and less detailed partwork versions.

No David i dont have anything that i am not happy with.just a chat with a like minded mate today about some of the stuff currently available,we wondered are some peeps just happy if it looks vaugely simillar.

That's alright then - I thought you'd been 'had' by someone selling something of inferior quality for a disproportionately inflated price. Glad to hear that wasn't the case.

My personal flaw that I cannot let go is when window detailing is poor or not done at all, lhd/rhd etc is only visible when you really look close but I've passed up on a number of models that otherwise I'd have loved to have had because of this. As far as livery detail goes, older stuff can be hard to get good reference pictures and if its low run and flaws happen but overall it looks right than no problem, with volume runs or recent stuff IMO there is no reason for significant flaws to be there.

Interesting debate. I'd always go with models being as accurate as possible. I totally agree with David in that if a job's worth doing it's worth doing well.

I've spent much time and effort converting models from RHD or LHD to the right orientalnation. I prefer .y models to be as close to the real thing as possible, including wheel styles, decals and interiors. Wheel size is sometimes a compromise due to availability of the right size and type for the model I'm making.

I tend to go by the saying 'it's all in the detail'.

Cheers, Steve

People that know me know how I feel and agree with the top statement. if the model is of a certain colour then it should be that, if its RHD then it should be that.
Also it depends how far you want to take a Code 3 model in regards to detail.
There are many of us on here we know who we are and can ad the small bits of detail that make a model look a lot better.
I don't agree with putting decals on the outside if the inside is not correct.
I would not sell a model if it wasn't good enough for me because I wouldn't expect people to pay their hard earned cars for something not right.

Totally agree with all the above comments a model should be as accurate as possible, so I am not defending inaccurate models here just trying to fill in the gaps as to why they might not be.….

I still can’t get my head around wrong LHD/RHD dashboards and I totally understand Dave Sims comments about should he correct them?

Building one model is fine but you might have to compromise on parts or decals depending what is available at the time of building.  Building a one off model for yourself is one thing, but if it’s for others that’s a bit different.

I am constantly discussing with the customer because expectation and reality are often miles apart!! The model can suddenly become very expensive and perhaps beyond their expectations or wallet. They are always fully informed on what is possible or what would need a miracle and then what the costs are likely to be. I have refused to do many models because the time or effort is not just worth it (think about changing a 4 door car into a 2 door car). You have to be honest and up front.

Changing LHD to RHD and then the wipers is clearly very important, but often not that easy to complete. I have just converted a 1:18 Minichamps road going Ford Capri and a 1:18 Auto Art Porsche 911 from LHD to RHD – I had to explain to both customers that the steering wheel will not now be connected to the steering rack!! I will leave you to think about it. The Porsche also required 4 spot lights. Where do I get 4 x 1:18 scale spotlights from? But on Ebay there were some from a 1:18 Escort at £20?? (cripes I have sold real spot lights for less than that!!) but the customer was OK with the extra cost, as it was the only way I could get anything like what we needed.

The Capri model is a one off model of the 1969 4WD Rallycross car. All I had was just one colour photo and the customer’s notes and his 45 year old memories to work from.  What did the interior and the dash looked like? – no idea I was spending more time looking out of the windscreen!!

So a one off model has often to be a compromise and made within your price range and certainly within a customers. All you can do is your best with what is available at the time of building.

Many potential customers don’t appreciate the huge financial outlay for 25 or 50 base models, parts and decals production before you can even sell any  of them. Flagging up a model early to see what interest there is an idea but then the builder is under huge pressure to deliver, which might still be months away. But at least you know that x number are pre sold.

Without the right contacts you can’t just rock up at IXO or Troffeu or whoever’s door and ask for 50 models in pink at trade price please!!!

As many have said it also depends upon what base models you have available at the time of building. I remember doing the Circuit of Ireland Airikkala Lancia 037s back in 2009 - 10. I used the Altaya base as it was the only base model readily available at that time. Someone on the old forum suggested I should have used an HPi base model. Yes indeed a much better base, BUT could I get 25 base models at the right price? As I had no way to get them at trade price it was never going to happen, but more to the point would the customer pay £30+ extra for an HPi based model, no. The next problem was the decals from Italy were incomplete and a lot of time was spent sorting out the missing ones and adding them to the completed model.

So back to the question - Absolutely, all models should be as accurate as possible, but as you can see there are a million pitfalls along the way to getting it right. Prices will vary widely depending upon the base model used and other extras required.

The only way to get these special models is to support the effort of those trying to bring them to you.

Chris