Model bench 'must have' equipment and supplies...

I thought it might be quite interesting to see what sort of 'must have' equipment or supplies you have on your model benches, and what you find obligatory in the process of making models, or applying decals. It might also be a way of picking up any useful tips from others. Here's a few from me to start the ball rolling...

Swann Moreton scalpel handles - one with a 10A (pointed) blade for cutting, and one with a 10 (rounded) blade for scraping.
Cocktail sticks - for careful positioning of decals prior to patting down, and for mounting small components to for spraying.
Cotton buds - for patting down decals, applying T-Cut to remove tampo print or polish windows, and for cleaning models once complete.
Roll of toilet tissue - always useful for clearing up any unforseen spillages.
Post-It pad - Ideal for cutting into mudflaps after colouring with black Sharpie pen.
Sharpie or Staedtler Mars OHP permanent fineliners - for colouring in any vents after sparying bodyshell, and much neater than brush painting them.
PVA Glue - for diluting 50/50 with water and used to ensure small decals remain stuck to the model.
Black electrician's tape - ideal for covering over base plinth captions, and a perfect match / shine / finish

Super Glue, needle files, a couple of pin vices / twist drills, a Dremel, baint brushes in various sizes, etc are also 'must have' equipment.

Anybody else like to divulge any 'secrets'?....

All of yours plus: Multiple grades of wet and dry, degreaser spray and lint free cloth for removing residue prior to painting, masking tape, needle nose tweezers for decal positioning, 2 different strengths of decal softener (a Microsol one and Solvaset for really tricky/bendy areas), very sharp body piercing scissors for cutting out decals, pliers for shortening axels, blue tac for mounting small parts for spraying, “white glue” (i use a Microsol one) for window fitting, chrome pen, white marker for spotlights, 2 part epoxy fast set, p38 filler and white fine putty for body mods, paint thinners and cleaners (ebamel and acrylic), acetone free nail varnish remover.

most of the above (dremel charger has died so currently back to basic hand cutting..phew!!) plus my very important curvy scissors, ideal for cutting out non straight decals..would hate to lose them...

Even temper and patience!

All the above but when applying decals I dry fit to make sure its right before dipping

Cowley wrote:I thought it might be quite interesting to see what sort of 'must have' equipment or supplies you have on your model benches, and what you find obligatory in the process of making models, or applying decals. It might also be a way of picking up any useful tips from others. Here's a few from me to start the ball rolling...

Swann Moreton scalpel handles - one with a 10A (pointed) blade for cutting, and one with a 10 (rounded) blade for scraping.
Cocktail sticks - for careful positioning of decals prior to patting down, and for mounting small components to for spraying.
Cotton buds - for patting down decals, applying T-Cut to remove tampo print or polish windows, and for cleaning models once complete.
Roll of toilet tissue - always useful for clearing up any unforseen spillages.
Post-It pad - Ideal for cutting into mudflaps after colouring with black Sharpie pen.
Sharpie or Staedtler Mars OHP permanent fineliners - for colouring in any vents after sparying bodyshell, and much neater than brush painting them.
PVA Glue - for diluting 50/50 with water and used to ensure small decals remain stuck to the model.
Black electrician's tape - ideal for covering over base plinth captions, and a perfect match / shine / finis

Super Glue, needle files, a couple of pin vices / twist drills, a Dremel, baint brushes in various sizes, etc are also 'must have' equipment.

Anybody else like to divulge any 'secrets'?....

I can problems ahead with this list ?????????? Cotton Buds are to be BANNED !!!!!!!!

I find one of the most useful tings I use when decaling is a medium-firm flat style paintbrush. I use it to help position the decal and then once in place, to 'wipe' over the decal with the brush. This removes all water left underneath in one pass as it conforms to the shape of the car. Ive found this better than using cotton buds as they can take several 'wipes' to remove the water.

I also found a hair dryer on high heat much better than any decal softening solutions as I have more control. I find it great to apply heat, get the decal sitting right then dip the decal brush in cold water and pass over the top of the decal one more time. I find the decal then cools to the shape of the model even more. In saying this, Ive only been using good decals in the last few years, no idea would this work on poorer or older decals